Friday, July 13, 2012

Party...Peruvian Style


My first weekend in Peru I got to check out a community party. I went with my host sister, Ana, and sister-in-law, Maria. In my pueblo, Chacrasana, there was the fiesta (party) for El Sagrado Corazon de Jesus (The Sacred Heart of Jesus). A religious holiday with religious festivities, but Peruvians also see that as another reason to have a party. So after attending mass some of the locals carried a shrine down to the area that had been prepared for the celebration. A dance troupe added to the festivities.


But the dancers weren't the only entertainment. There was a large stage constructed for a band too.


Yup, the band and....Wait! Is that a scantily clad go-go dancer I see in front of the picture of Jesus??? Why, yes! There was a dancer who participated in the musical performance as well! Apparently, Peruvians, who definitely can take their religion seriously, can also be blind to some very American sensitivities, lol.
Oh, but the party was only getting started. It alternated between music and fireworks. But not fireworks like we'd expect on the 4th of July. They had constructed a large tower (they called it a castillo) which was loaded with fireworks complete with spinning wheels (which periodically went flying off the tower) and fireworks exploding directly above our heads. Needless to say, I was impressed. When I told my sister, Ana, that it was so impressive because I'd never be able to see fireworks from that angle and that close in the US due to rules there, she chuckled and responded, “No hay reglas aquí.” (There aren't rules here).
Think the story ends here? Heck no! We're just getting to the good part: the toro loco!!! (translation: crazy bull, although I don't think the word crazy does it justice.) A toro loco is basically a guy in a weird looking “bull” costume.
Apparently this guy is a Holstein. What are all those things on top of the costume? Well they need something to attach the fireworks to!!! Duh! So in action the toro loco looked something more like this...
When I was at the national museum in Lima, I saw a toro loco on display, so I asked the guide about it. She said that it was a tradition brought by the Spaniards. They originally put fireworks on actual bulls and had them fight, but this was logistically dificult in Peru because they had to import the bulls. And thus was born the toro loco. Admittedly these human fireworks dressed like cows were pretty entertaining. When they started spraying firework directly into the crowd it got a little more exciting if not just a little scary. The festivities alternated between music, castillos, and toros locos, culminating with two toros locos simultaneously for a grand finale (I have a sneaking suspicion that the 4th of July just won't be as exciting anymore). All-in-all, I have to admit Peruvians know how to celebrate.
A few days ago I noticed a hole in my sweat shirt. It took me a second to figure how the heck I got a small burn hole in my shirt. Apparently, the word “fire” in fireworks is no joke. So please, boys and girls, don't play with toros locos at home, but if you do, at least make sure you're wearing clothes that you wouldn't mind turning into a bonfire!




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